Well the size of the page numbers is in proportion to the size of text in the main window, which is controlled by the browser font size. If you want it larger then you can either hit Ctl/+ for a temporary fix or, for a permanent one, in Firefox for example, go to Edit>Preferences>Content and under 'Fonts and Colours' increase the default font size to something more suitable.
As for seeing where you are, probably the solution above would solve that as well, but I must admit that the default turquoise colour against a light green background is not be perfect if you suffer from a mild colour blindness ( a lot of people do without knowing it), and in that case the back/forward arrows may well be useful.
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