New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
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Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
YAY! Well at least you have a couple of days before it arrives. As always amazing work, you Woman of Steel, you!
- Lady Fitzgerald
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Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Thanks! I've decided I'm going to wait until Monday to actually pick it up. The guys at the UPS Store are good about loading heavy stuff into my truck for me so I'll only have to lug it from the tailgate of my truck into the house.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
The plastic I ordered to shim the panel in the "hub" arrived today (after an "airport security delay"; hunh? ). I cut off a length to go inside the "hub's" front panel.
The plastic is self adhesive so I peeled off the backing and stuck inside the "hub" (sorry for the lousy photo; I had "fun" holding the raceway, aka "hub", with one while taking the photo with the other hand.
Next, I drilled the pilot holes in the front panel of the "hub", starting with a 3/32" drill bit followed by a 1/8" drill bit, then a 3/16" drill bit. After using a straight edge to make sure the holes were still in a straight line, I drilled the pilot holes to their final 1/4" size. Had any of the holes been slightly out of alignment, I could have "adjusted" them with a file.
Next, use the 1-1/8" hole saw to cut the holes for the USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 Type C ports.
The plastic is self adhesive so I peeled off the backing and stuck inside the "hub" (sorry for the lousy photo; I had "fun" holding the raceway, aka "hub", with one while taking the photo with the other hand.
Next, I drilled the pilot holes in the front panel of the "hub", starting with a 3/32" drill bit followed by a 1/8" drill bit, then a 3/16" drill bit. After using a straight edge to make sure the holes were still in a straight line, I drilled the pilot holes to their final 1/4" size. Had any of the holes been slightly out of alignment, I could have "adjusted" them with a file.
Next, use the 1-1/8" hole saw to cut the holes for the USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 Type C ports.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Before "drilling" the holes with the hole saw, I put tape over the three pilot holes for the dual USB 3.0 ports since I don't have them yet and I don't want to cut those holes until I get them to make sure I get them the correct size. Then I cut the remaining four holes. After cutting the holes, I used a deburring tool to gradually enlarge each hole until the port body was a snug fit in the hole.
I won't get the remaining port bodies until Monday. In the meantime, I need to make a clamp to secure the "hub" to the top of my desk at the back. While I was out, I stopped at Ace Hardware and picked up some 1/8" x 2" x 2" aluminum angle and some wing screws to make the clamp with. I've already cut the aluminum down to size; laying out and drilling a bunch of holes is next.
I won't get the remaining port bodies until Monday. In the meantime, I need to make a clamp to secure the "hub" to the top of my desk at the back. While I was out, I stopped at Ace Hardware and picked up some 1/8" x 2" x 2" aluminum angle and some wing screws to make the clamp with. I've already cut the aluminum down to size; laying out and drilling a bunch of holes is next.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
I started laying out, cutting, and drilling the aluminum for the "hub" clamp. This is what some of the aluminum looks where it will be installed on the bottom of the "hub"after I cut it to size.
Taking pictures of aluminum isn't easy since it's so reflective.
Next was to lay out and drill rivet holes on the "hub". The blind rivets I'll be using are a frog hair over 1/8" so a 1/8" drill bit won't make bitg enough holes. I used a #30 (0.128") number size drill bit.
I taped the one of the aluminum angles and the short piece of aluminum flat bar to the "hub" and marked the hole locations onto the aluminum through the holes I just drilled, then drilled the holes with a #30 bit. After that, I countersunk some of the holes where I'll be using flat head rivets.
I also had to drill holes into the other leg of the angle and into another angle that will get riveted to the first angle and countersink these holes in the first angle. It wasn't difficult, just tedious. Here are the three pieces of aluminum that will be the clamp when finished.
I still need to layout and drill three more holes for the rivet-nut inserts the clamp screws will go into and install them but, by the time I got this far, I was pooped!
Taking pictures of aluminum isn't easy since it's so reflective.
Next was to lay out and drill rivet holes on the "hub". The blind rivets I'll be using are a frog hair over 1/8" so a 1/8" drill bit won't make bitg enough holes. I used a #30 (0.128") number size drill bit.
I taped the one of the aluminum angles and the short piece of aluminum flat bar to the "hub" and marked the hole locations onto the aluminum through the holes I just drilled, then drilled the holes with a #30 bit. After that, I countersunk some of the holes where I'll be using flat head rivets.
I also had to drill holes into the other leg of the angle and into another angle that will get riveted to the first angle and countersink these holes in the first angle. It wasn't difficult, just tedious. Here are the three pieces of aluminum that will be the clamp when finished.
I still need to layout and drill three more holes for the rivet-nut inserts the clamp screws will go into and install them but, by the time I got this far, I was pooped!
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Wow, impressive. Especially with a blown back.... I know that feeling.
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Just before I went to bed last night, I was struck with the thought (yes, it hurt) that I should try to coil the keyboard USB cable. The procedure is fairly easy, just tape down one end on a cable on a rod of some kind, wind the cable tightly around the rod, tape down the other end, then heat it up enough to not quite melt the cable jacket for around ten minutes or so and let it cool down before removing it from the rod. However, not all cable jacket materials are suitable for coiling so I've met with various degrees of success when doing it on others.
Here I've coiled what I could of the cable around a 3/4" wooden dowel.
I normally use my big Wagner heat gun when trying to coil power cables but it's too big and awkward to use here so I used my little heat gun I normally just use for shrinking heat shrink sleeves.
After heating the coil for around 11 minutes, I let it cool for around half an hour, then liberated it from the dowel. This is the result.
Not exactly one of my better efforts. Still, it's better than total failure.
In other news, while I was active yesterday, I removed my bedroom door by unscrewing the hinge screws from the jamb. I avoided having to lift it by shimming the space between the door bottom and the floor before removing the screws, then "walked" each side of the bottom onto some folded rags on the floor, then, while holding the door upright, "slud" it down the hall a ways and leaned it against the wall for now (I need to make room for it in the bedroom that serves as a storage room later on down the road). This way, I was able to avoid hurting my back any more that it still is (it's gradually getting better).
The reason for removing the door was it it was in the way of the night stand my scanners are on and my new computer is going to sit on, resulting in the night stand sticking too far out into the room. Because of the night stand, I couldn't close the door anyway. I'm going to replace that door with an accordion door later this summer; right now, there still is the back issue and and I have a new computer arriving soon.
My *&^%$#@! allergies are driving me nutz this morning (I know, short trip) so I'm heading back to bed for a while.
Here I've coiled what I could of the cable around a 3/4" wooden dowel.
I normally use my big Wagner heat gun when trying to coil power cables but it's too big and awkward to use here so I used my little heat gun I normally just use for shrinking heat shrink sleeves.
After heating the coil for around 11 minutes, I let it cool for around half an hour, then liberated it from the dowel. This is the result.
Not exactly one of my better efforts. Still, it's better than total failure.
In other news, while I was active yesterday, I removed my bedroom door by unscrewing the hinge screws from the jamb. I avoided having to lift it by shimming the space between the door bottom and the floor before removing the screws, then "walked" each side of the bottom onto some folded rags on the floor, then, while holding the door upright, "slud" it down the hall a ways and leaned it against the wall for now (I need to make room for it in the bedroom that serves as a storage room later on down the road). This way, I was able to avoid hurting my back any more that it still is (it's gradually getting better).
The reason for removing the door was it it was in the way of the night stand my scanners are on and my new computer is going to sit on, resulting in the night stand sticking too far out into the room. Because of the night stand, I couldn't close the door anyway. I'm going to replace that door with an accordion door later this summer; right now, there still is the back issue and and I have a new computer arriving soon.
My *&^%$#@! allergies are driving me nutz this morning (I know, short trip) so I'm heading back to bed for a while.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
After a short nap (which didn't help my allergies much), I laid out and drilled the holes for the rivet nut inserts. A rivet nut insert is a gizmo that puts threads into thin materials, such as sheet metal. Here is a shot of a 1/4"-20 rivet nut insert and the tools I use to set them.
This is a closeup of the insert, a mandrel, ans a screw used when setting the insert.
If you look closely at the insert (the silver colored doohickey in the lower left corner), you may be able to see it is made of two pieces. The end closest to the lower left corner of the image is a slightly flanged collar. The other piece is a tapered slug that's threaded inside. When a screw is inserted inside and is tightened, it draws the slug up into the collar and, since the slug is tapered, it enlarges the collar, trapping it in the hole it was inserted into. The knurling just under the tiny flange is to keep the collar from spinning in its hole after installation
To keep the collar from spinning in the hole while setting the insert, a mandrel is needed. In the last photo, it's the hex shaped brass colored doohickey. McMaster.com sells a grossly overpriced tool for setting these that doesn't work all that well. It has a proprietary hex bit inside that strips out pretty easily. You can buy the hex bit but it's sold only in an expensive set with a mandrel. The tool itself is difficult to use.
Instead of spending a fortune on replacement bit and mandrel sets every time the stupid bit stripped and I couldn't file it down anymore, I came up with another way to set the inserts that allowed me to use inexpensive yet better quality hex bits I could use with my impact driver (far easier to use than the manual piece of crap tool designed for it). The mandrel is pretty much indestructible. I use a 9/16" box end wrench to keep it from turning. I also use better quality screws than the original tool that also are dirt cheap to replace. On my smaller inserts, I replaced the hex head screws with Torx screws so I could use less strip prone Torx bits. I haven't replaced the 1/4"-20 hex head screws yet since they and their bits are far less likely to strip than the smaller hex head screws and bits.
Here, I've assembled an insert, the mandrel, and a screw. The washers at the top prevent wear on the top of the mandrel and help to reduce friction that could cause the screws to snap from needing too much torque to set the insert. I also put a tiny drop of oil under the head and between the washers and on the threads of the screw.
This is a closeup of the insert, a mandrel, ans a screw used when setting the insert.
If you look closely at the insert (the silver colored doohickey in the lower left corner), you may be able to see it is made of two pieces. The end closest to the lower left corner of the image is a slightly flanged collar. The other piece is a tapered slug that's threaded inside. When a screw is inserted inside and is tightened, it draws the slug up into the collar and, since the slug is tapered, it enlarges the collar, trapping it in the hole it was inserted into. The knurling just under the tiny flange is to keep the collar from spinning in its hole after installation
To keep the collar from spinning in the hole while setting the insert, a mandrel is needed. In the last photo, it's the hex shaped brass colored doohickey. McMaster.com sells a grossly overpriced tool for setting these that doesn't work all that well. It has a proprietary hex bit inside that strips out pretty easily. You can buy the hex bit but it's sold only in an expensive set with a mandrel. The tool itself is difficult to use.
Instead of spending a fortune on replacement bit and mandrel sets every time the stupid bit stripped and I couldn't file it down anymore, I came up with another way to set the inserts that allowed me to use inexpensive yet better quality hex bits I could use with my impact driver (far easier to use than the manual piece of crap tool designed for it). The mandrel is pretty much indestructible. I use a 9/16" box end wrench to keep it from turning. I also use better quality screws than the original tool that also are dirt cheap to replace. On my smaller inserts, I replaced the hex head screws with Torx screws so I could use less strip prone Torx bits. I haven't replaced the 1/4"-20 hex head screws yet since they and their bits are far less likely to strip than the smaller hex head screws and bits.
Here, I've assembled an insert, the mandrel, and a screw. The washers at the top prevent wear on the top of the mandrel and help to reduce friction that could cause the screws to snap from needing too much torque to set the insert. I also put a tiny drop of oil under the head and between the washers and on the threads of the screw.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Here, I have the insert inserted into a hole in one of the angles that is part of the clamp assembly, put the 9/16" box end wrench of the mandrel to keep it from spinning, and put the hex bit that's chucked up in the impact driver into the head of the screw.
All I have to do now is hang onto the wrench and slowly pull the trigger until the slug has drawn up into the collar. Here are a couple of shots of the insert after setting it.
Notice in the next to last photo how the slug has been drawn up almost completely into the collar.
All I have to do now is hang onto the wrench and slowly pull the trigger until the slug has drawn up into the collar. Here are a couple of shots of the insert after setting it.
Notice in the next to last photo how the slug has been drawn up almost completely into the collar.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Here, I've inserted all three of the inserts and have threaded in the wing screws that go into them.
I'm almost ready to assemble the clamp onto the "hub".
I'm almost ready to assemble the clamp onto the "hub".
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Because of the edge profile on the overhang at the back of the top of my desk, there is a possibility that the clamp may not hold and rock back so I wanted a plan B in place. For that, I need some holes for screws I can drive into the back apron of the desk along with some wood spacer blocks. The two angles need to be assembled before I can drill those holes to ensure they line up but, to enable the rivet setter to be used, the first angle has to be riveted to the "hub", then the second angle can be riveted to the first angle. However, it would be awkward to drill the Plan B holes after the clamp has been installed so I cheated.
This is a picture of the 20 Clecos, two side clamps, and the installation pliers I have.
Here is a single Cleco and the pliers.
A Cleco is a essentially a temporary rivet. It can be used to hold parts together while drilling other rivet holes to ensure proper alignment for installing rivets. To install a Cleco, a pair of special pliers are used to push a plunger into the Cleco so the "rivet" end contracts enough to let it be slipped into a hole. When the pliers are released, the "rivet" end expands in diameter and retracts in length to securely fasten the two parts. The pliers are also used to remove the Cleco. Here, I'm ready to insert a Cleco into a hole.
This is a picture of the 20 Clecos, two side clamps, and the installation pliers I have.
Here is a single Cleco and the pliers.
A Cleco is a essentially a temporary rivet. It can be used to hold parts together while drilling other rivet holes to ensure proper alignment for installing rivets. To install a Cleco, a pair of special pliers are used to push a plunger into the Cleco so the "rivet" end contracts enough to let it be slipped into a hole. When the pliers are released, the "rivet" end expands in diameter and retracts in length to securely fasten the two parts. The pliers are also used to remove the Cleco. Here, I'm ready to insert a Cleco into a hole.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
This is how the Clecos look once I used them to temporarily join the two angles together. They held the two parts tightly together with the predrilled rivet holes in perfect alignment while I drilled the three Plan B holes. When I permanently rivet the clamp together to the "hub", those three holes will still be perfectly aligned.
After I drilled the Plan B holes, I removed the Clecos and started riveting the first angle and and the piece of bar stock to the bottom of the "hub". This was pretty much a three handed operation I had to do with only two, old, shaky, arthritic hands (a few Clecos helped a bit) so I didn't get any pictures of me riveting the aluminum to the hub. Riveting the two angles together was a little bit easier but still "fun".
Eventually, I got it all together and this is what it looks like.
Except for the front and side edges, which I can blacken with a felt pen, where the bottom of the "hub" itself will sit on the desk, none of the aluminum will show from in front of the desk so I'm not going to bother to paint it. It's too darned hot for that outside and I don't feel like huffing paint fumes inside (I need all the few brain cells I have left). I can't test the clamp yet because I have cables and an SSD dock along with its Thunderbolt hub mounted at the back of the desk and I'm still using them with my laptop.
I dug out a round computer chassis cable management grommet that I can use to pass the seven USB cables out the back of the "hub". I just need to cut a 1-1/4" hole for it and use a tine bit of super glue to make sure it doesn't slip out when installed. I also still need to install and glue in the end panels of the "hub" but I need a break (a long one; my tired and hands hurt even more than my back).
After I drilled the Plan B holes, I removed the Clecos and started riveting the first angle and and the piece of bar stock to the bottom of the "hub". This was pretty much a three handed operation I had to do with only two, old, shaky, arthritic hands (a few Clecos helped a bit) so I didn't get any pictures of me riveting the aluminum to the hub. Riveting the two angles together was a little bit easier but still "fun".
Eventually, I got it all together and this is what it looks like.
Except for the front and side edges, which I can blacken with a felt pen, where the bottom of the "hub" itself will sit on the desk, none of the aluminum will show from in front of the desk so I'm not going to bother to paint it. It's too darned hot for that outside and I don't feel like huffing paint fumes inside (I need all the few brain cells I have left). I can't test the clamp yet because I have cables and an SSD dock along with its Thunderbolt hub mounted at the back of the desk and I'm still using them with my laptop.
I dug out a round computer chassis cable management grommet that I can use to pass the seven USB cables out the back of the "hub". I just need to cut a 1-1/4" hole for it and use a tine bit of super glue to make sure it doesn't slip out when installed. I also still need to install and glue in the end panels of the "hub" but I need a break (a long one; my tired and hands hurt even more than my back).
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Thanks, Murph!
Working with a blown back is unpleasant but, as long as I'm careful, don't do any twisting or lifting anything more than a few pounds, bending down, etc., doing stuff that keeps me moving actually helps with the back. It's at its worse when I first drag my carcass out of bed in the morning because, except for one or two bladder breaks, I've been immobile all night. It gets better once I eventually work the kinks out. I've said it before and I'll say it again, old age is like a Hoover; both suck.
In other new, my new computer was delivered to my mail service earlier today. I'm going to wait until no sooner than Saturday (more likely, Monday) to give my back more time to heal before I have to wrestle with it.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
I got the end caps glued into the ends of the "hub". That was a bit of a chore because I had to position the cap at one end, snap the cover closed to hold it in place, then run a bead of super glue on the joint on two sides and the bottom (I didn't want glue the cover shut!). As the super glue dried, I added a bit more until any voids were filled. Then, after the glue was dried, I pried the cover open (not too hard at this stage because I still could start at the other end) and ran a bead of super glue on the inside of the joint.
Once that was dried, it was repeat and rinse for the other end. Closing the cover to clamp the other end in place was more difficult. After filling all voids with super glue and waiting for it to dry, prying the cover back one was a bear, a really big, grumpy bear. I had to pry at the center of the "hub" with a flat blade screw driver while pushing in the back panel until I could get the shank of the screw driver between the cover and the back panel. Once I finally was able to do that, I could just run the shank toward one end until the end of the cover popped open, then repeat for the other end. Once the cover was open, I ran a bead of super glue on the inside of the second end. That cover is staying open until the "hub" is finished!
Once that bead was dry, I filed the ends flat, then used my ROS (Random Orbital Sander) to smooth the ends, starting with 80 grit, then advancing through 120, 180, 220, and 320. After sanding, I put a coat of paste wax on the ends to slick them up a bit. It looks kinda OK but I need to see if I can find any finer grit sandpaper for my ROS. I still don't want to paint this thing.
Here they are.
I'm not overly thrilled with the results but they won't be all that visible when the "hub" is installed on my desk.
Just for excrement and merriment, here is a look at the inside.
Next will be to cut a test hole in a piece of scrap to make sure the grommet at the back of the "hub" will fit, then cut the hole in the "hub" and install the grommet. Then it's hurry up and wait until I get the three dual port USB bodies to cut the last three holes and install all the USB ports and cables.
Once that was dried, it was repeat and rinse for the other end. Closing the cover to clamp the other end in place was more difficult. After filling all voids with super glue and waiting for it to dry, prying the cover back one was a bear, a really big, grumpy bear. I had to pry at the center of the "hub" with a flat blade screw driver while pushing in the back panel until I could get the shank of the screw driver between the cover and the back panel. Once I finally was able to do that, I could just run the shank toward one end until the end of the cover popped open, then repeat for the other end. Once the cover was open, I ran a bead of super glue on the inside of the second end. That cover is staying open until the "hub" is finished!
Once that bead was dry, I filed the ends flat, then used my ROS (Random Orbital Sander) to smooth the ends, starting with 80 grit, then advancing through 120, 180, 220, and 320. After sanding, I put a coat of paste wax on the ends to slick them up a bit. It looks kinda OK but I need to see if I can find any finer grit sandpaper for my ROS. I still don't want to paint this thing.
Here they are.
I'm not overly thrilled with the results but they won't be all that visible when the "hub" is installed on my desk.
Just for excrement and merriment, here is a look at the inside.
Next will be to cut a test hole in a piece of scrap to make sure the grommet at the back of the "hub" will fit, then cut the hole in the "hub" and install the grommet. Then it's hurry up and wait until I get the three dual port USB bodies to cut the last three holes and install all the USB ports and cables.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
You can get very fine sandpaper at an auto body supply
I use 1000 grit on stuff I clear coat , .....rumpus
I use 1000 grit on stuff I clear coat , .....rumpus
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
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- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Thanks for the tip.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
For the cable grommet in the back, I wound up using a 1" grommet.
I couldn't get the larger one to fit correctly when I tested it on a piece of scrap (both were intended for use with thin sheet metal, not roughly 3/32" thick plastic). I can get all seven USB cables to go through as long as I push the five USB Type A connectors through first, then the two USB Type C connectors. To ensure the grommet wouldn't pop out, I ran a bead of super glue around the flange of the grommet on the inside. It's not going anywhere soon.
I couldn't get the larger one to fit correctly when I tested it on a piece of scrap (both were intended for use with thin sheet metal, not roughly 3/32" thick plastic). I can get all seven USB cables to go through as long as I push the five USB Type A connectors through first, then the two USB Type C connectors. To ensure the grommet wouldn't pop out, I ran a bead of super glue around the flange of the grommet on the inside. It's not going anywhere soon.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
I picked up the computer today and, so far, I have NOT been impressed. This is the box it came in:
Here is what I saw when I opened it.
The foam supporting the computer away from the walls of the computer is a high quality foam, not flimsy steam expanded bead polystyrene. However, although it would seem the computer was well protected inside the box, note how the top of the foam doesn't quite reach the top of the box.
This is after removing the top foam piece.
The problem now is there isn't any easy handhold to remove the computer from the box since it sits recessed in the bottom foam. Getting it out of the box was a back stressing bugger. I won't know until tomorrow if I hurt my back again.
Here is what I saw when I opened it.
The foam supporting the computer away from the walls of the computer is a high quality foam, not flimsy steam expanded bead polystyrene. However, although it would seem the computer was well protected inside the box, note how the top of the foam doesn't quite reach the top of the box.
This is after removing the top foam piece.
The problem now is there isn't any easy handhold to remove the computer from the box since it sits recessed in the bottom foam. Getting it out of the box was a back stressing bugger. I won't know until tomorrow if I hurt my back again.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
- Lady Fitzgerald
- Level 15
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:12 pm
- Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
The disappointments continue. First, many of the eight thumbscrews on the back that secure the case cover were a bear to remove because the screw holes are slightly misaligned. Lifting off the case cover is not too bad but replacing it is a bit of chore because it tends to slip out of alignment at the back.
The case cover is made of three panels connected by two radiused front corner extrusions. The panels don't quite fit flush in the extrusions. I had planned on covering the case cover with wood veneer but not having a flat surface all the way around is going to be a wee bit of a problem. Quality control of the case is a bit sloppy overall.
Second, the bracket they touted for supporting the graphics card is located all the way at the back where it isn't supporting squat.
There is a lot of structure to remove to just to get to the graphics card, which has to be removed to get to the cover/heat sink over lower three SSD ports. In addition to the graphics card, the shroud over the CPU cooler has to be removed to get to the top SSD heatsink and port (and maybe even the cooler).
The PSU cables were bound up in a big bundle in the bottom of the computer where it can obstruct some of the airflow from the bottom fan. There are cables scattered throughout the computer that don't connect to anything. If I decide to keep this thing, it will be a bugger to sort the cable jungle out.
The case design is leaky as a sieve. There is a filter screen for the fan in the bottom of the case and the vent on the side of the case but, besides being a bit too coarse to effectively filter out fine dust, there are plenty of places for dust to bypass those filters. Look at the gap at one corner of the case cover at the bottom as well as along the front and sides.
This where I really became furious. You can't use standard standard PCIe blanking plates at the back of the computer unless it's fastened to a PCIe card due to the rinkydink clamp set up they use that requires their custom made covers. I was counting on using those slots to mount USB ports running off the unused front panel headers but I won't be able to unless I can come up with a fix or workaround.
It would have been so easy to design the clamp to use standard slot banking covers so why the hell did they think they had to redesign it to need custom covers?
I'm going to wait a day or two to see if it will be worth trying to get this thing up and running and modified to meet my needs and maintaining it or if I should just send it back.
The case cover is made of three panels connected by two radiused front corner extrusions. The panels don't quite fit flush in the extrusions. I had planned on covering the case cover with wood veneer but not having a flat surface all the way around is going to be a wee bit of a problem. Quality control of the case is a bit sloppy overall.
Second, the bracket they touted for supporting the graphics card is located all the way at the back where it isn't supporting squat.
There is a lot of structure to remove to just to get to the graphics card, which has to be removed to get to the cover/heat sink over lower three SSD ports. In addition to the graphics card, the shroud over the CPU cooler has to be removed to get to the top SSD heatsink and port (and maybe even the cooler).
The PSU cables were bound up in a big bundle in the bottom of the computer where it can obstruct some of the airflow from the bottom fan. There are cables scattered throughout the computer that don't connect to anything. If I decide to keep this thing, it will be a bugger to sort the cable jungle out.
The case design is leaky as a sieve. There is a filter screen for the fan in the bottom of the case and the vent on the side of the case but, besides being a bit too coarse to effectively filter out fine dust, there are plenty of places for dust to bypass those filters. Look at the gap at one corner of the case cover at the bottom as well as along the front and sides.
This where I really became furious. You can't use standard standard PCIe blanking plates at the back of the computer unless it's fastened to a PCIe card due to the rinkydink clamp set up they use that requires their custom made covers. I was counting on using those slots to mount USB ports running off the unused front panel headers but I won't be able to unless I can come up with a fix or workaround.
It would have been so easy to design the clamp to use standard slot banking covers so why the hell did they think they had to redesign it to need custom covers?
I'm going to wait a day or two to see if it will be worth trying to get this thing up and running and modified to meet my needs and maintaining it or if I should just send it back.
Jeannie
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
To ensure the safety of your data, you have to be proactive, not reactive, so, back it up!
Re: New Desktop Computer - Part 1 (Predelivery Preparation)
Sorry you are disappointed, my experience has been completely different.Lady Fitzgerald wrote: ⤴Mon Jun 05, 2023 6:55 pm I'm going to wait a day or two to see if it will be worth trying to get this thing up and running and modified to meet my needs and maintaining it or if I should just send it back.
Bob
Pop_OS! 22.04 {Dell Inspiron 15 5510}
Linux Mint Cinnamon 21 {Minisforum UM700}
Pop_OS! Thelio Mira ;-)
We have met the enemy and he is us. - Pogo
Linux Mint Cinnamon 21 {Minisforum UM700}
Pop_OS! Thelio Mira ;-)
We have met the enemy and he is us. - Pogo